VoyForums
[ Show ]
Support VoyForums
[ Shrink ]
VoyForums Announcement: Programming and providing support for this service has been a labor of love since 1997. We are one of the few services online who values our users' privacy, and have never sold your information. We have even fought hard to defend your privacy in legal cases; however, we've done it with almost no financial support -- paying out of pocket to continue providing the service. Due to the issues imposed on us by advertisers, we also stopped hosting most ads on the forums many years ago. We hope you appreciate our efforts.

Show your support by donating any amount. (Note: We are still technically a for-profit company, so your contribution is not tax-deductible.) PayPal Acct: Feedback:

Donate to VoyForums (PayPal):

Thu, March 13 2025, 15:15Login ] [ Contact Forum Admin ] [ Main index ] [ Post a new message ] [ Search | Check update time | Archives: 1[2]3456789 ]


[ Next Thread | Previous Thread | Next Message | Previous Message ]

Date Posted: - Tuesday - 12/18/12 - 9:54pm
Author: Adam
Subject: The long dry out ...
In reply to: Randall 's message, "Not daunting..." on - Friday - 12/14/12 - 6:55pm

Here in the Pacific Northwest dry weather is at a premium. And normally during those months I'm out sailing as much as possible. All other seasons are wet. I'm trying to dry the boat out as best I can right now. I have her pretty much fully tarped and have heaters running inside. I'm installing a solid fuel heater that I'm hoping will do wonders at sucking the moisture out from the cabin. I won't start any of the epoxy patching until after its been good and dry for awhile.

The problem with the old owners work is just that it wasn't done properly. The decks themselves are solid ... no soft spots or rotted wood. The cockpit and decks I think were re-done sometime in the past and are strong. The deck around the outside of the cockpit never was though, and you can tell, so I'll be using your guide to fix a lot of that ...

Where the old owner DID do the new glasswork down to the ply is very solid ... it just leaks because I don't think any of the deck hardware was pulled. The fiberglass wasn't faired or anything and was simply laid up to the toerail, not under neath. So, while the decks are strong, all the leaks remain. I think I'll have to put down one layer of glass after pulling all the deck hardware up (and properly rebedding it through the new glass) before the leaks will go away.

But all of these projects will require me to give up many sailing days this summer. Good thing I've got lots of sailing friends ... I'm going to work on all the areas of the deck that are essential to sailing (ie winches, shrouds, ext) first so that I can at least take her out sailing while in project mode a little bit ...

Thanks again for ALL your info. It has been invaluable so far in my planning stages. I can't wait to get the solid fuel heater in there!

~Adam

[ Next Thread | Previous Thread | Next Message | Previous Message ]


Replies:

[> [> [> [> Wet up there, indeed -- Randall, - Friday - 12/21/12 - 4:20pm

Yes, having just last month made it back to San Francisco from Port Townsend in Murre, I can sympathize with the wet. I had lovely sunny weather almost all the way from Alaska to Washington, and then on Oct 7, winter arrived in one three day period and stayed. It took me a month of harbor hopping to make it from Gray's Harbor to San Francisco.

One trick I pulled when working on Murre here in SF was to give up my slip in my Sausalito marina, pull the masts and put the boat in a covered berth for the winter. That way I could work during the months that SF attempts to imitate Seattle. The slip fee for the covered berth was maybe $20 more a month, and pulling the masts cost less than $200, so I felt it was worth it. And I could always get the summer slip back easily.

As regards leaky toe rails...welcome to the club. Even after all the work I've done on Murre, she still has a few leaks, mostly up in the forepeak where I can't get to them. One trick James of PIXIS employed to get around this was as follows: when he relayed the decks, he took fiberglass cloth all the way up the inside edge of the toe rail so that the top of the decks and the toe rail edge became one surface. In my experience, the leaking most usually comes from this joint of deck to toe rail. If you can't run glass up the side (I did not think to do that when I could) you might lay a really thick bead of bedding compound, like an inch wide, at this point. I used 3m 100 for this and for bedding hardware (not sure it is still available). I think pulling and rebedding hardware, to your point, will also help a lot.


[ Edit | View ]





[ Contact Forum Admin ]


Forum timezone: GMT-5
VF Version: 3.00b, ConfDB:
Before posting please read our privacy policy.
VoyForums(tm) is a Free Service from Voyager Info-Systems.
Copyright © 1998-2019 Voyager Info-Systems. All Rights Reserved.