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Wed, February 05 2025, 04:37 [ Login ] [ Contact Forum Admin ] [ Main index ] [ Post a new message ] [ Search | Check update time | Archives: 1, 2, 3, 4, [5], 6, 7, 8, 9 ]

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Date Posted: - Monday - 12/14/09 - 11:22am
Author: Steve M-32 SEAN O'Sea
Subject: Alternator regulator
In reply to: Randall, Murre, M31 's message, "alternator regulators" on - Monday - 12/14/09 - 1:45am

THe first thing you'll need to do is to figure out which (or at least what kind) of alternator you have. Presumably because you have an external regulator the alternator requires one but because of the age and history of the boats and the state of Murre's wiring that is not a given. Look for some numbers on the alternator and a manufacturer if you can find one. Because we have diesels we don't have to have marine alternators so there is a good chance that an automotive one was used. Pulling it and taking it down to your local old school auto store might also yield some good info. There is a lot of different models, types and ways of wiring these things s othere will be many variables as you try to figure this out. I recently went through the same thing on my engine (though I haven't wired the boat yet) so I can give some help but I need more info in order to give more details.

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[> [> Voltage Regulators -- Paul - 1971 M31 - #106, - Monday - 12/14/09 - 7:43pm

What Steve is eluding to is that most newer (automotive) alternators have a built-in regulator for Voltage Management.

Newer alternators contain no permanent magnets (as opposed to the old fashioned dynamos) and need a 'steering current" from a minimally charged battery, to engergize the core (to make it a magnet), so that it will induce a current in the stator once it rotates the field within the charging coils. A lot of people toss perfectly good alternators because they didn't produce a voltage/current when "tested". They won't, unless you charge the rotor coils.

If you have a reasonably updated alternator, chance are it contains it's own regulator, likely with qualities that surpass the old mystery box you discovered.

As regards the only line left from the battery powering the entire boat - except perhaps for some items many people like to see "hardwired" to the battery - such as the primary bilge pump and alarm and VHF radio - typically the battery bank will supply power through a heavier cable to a main breaker mounted on the panel and from there through "normal" lines to the various individual breakers subblying and protecting their designated circuits.

With only this main line left, you probably have all the switches still "hot" but no bilge pump and your VHF radio won't work...

I don't (yet) know this boat - maybe I am right... ;-)


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[> [> [> More hardwired stuff... -- Paul - 1971 M31 - #106, - Monday - 12/14/09 - 7:56pm

The engine panel is likely hardwired to the battery as well.

As are the glow plugs (or the "cold start assist" as is used on the Marinized (no pun) Perkins engines)

The main power to the starter motor

12V auxilliary power outlets

The fan the PO mounted in the V-Berth

Etc.....

Note that "hardwired" means it has a designated line directly to the battery (often also a return "neutral) and it is protected by an in-line fuse rated specifically for the equipment.


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