Looking Forward to this in the New Year, Happy New Year! -- Keenfish Message Board

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Date Posted: Fri, Dec 31 2004, 18:16:22
Author: sflsurfer
Subject:

Looking Forward to this in the New Year, Happy New Year!

"Gods Green House"
by
sflsurfer

You wake up and look out of the window...it's still dark and you can't see it but know it's there. Pumping! You can feel the "vibe", the "charge"! Your skin tingles with anticipation, your heart is pumping, that familiar knot in your stomach that you know so well! You reach over and grab your baggies still wet from the sunset sess' that was fun, but not like it will be today. Today is the day! You grab your board, brushing off some sand still stuck to it and head outside. As you strap your board down you feel a slight caressing breeze cross your face. Still dark and you can't tell the wind yet.
Driving down, the first morning light touches the sky and you look at the rivers surface to see slight ripples flowing towards the other side. The tops of the trees being pulled towards the beach. Light offshores... pulling YOU! No one is on the road and your foot gets heavier. Racing past the houses with everyone still sleeping in their beds unaware of what the ocean has to offer on the other side of the river. That's alright, more for you!
You turn onto the bridge with only a mile to go. You are charging to the beach, the waves, to re-charge your soul! Finally you get there and climb out of the car. Your senses are singing! Offshores across your skin, the smell of salt penetrating your lungs, the distant rumble of the breaking waves in your ears and you can't wait to get out! As you come across the dunes your eyes finally see what your heart and soul have been yearning for! Double Overhead, peeling, barrelling, glass and no one is out....yet!
As you stretch and wax your board your mind reels at the sight! It is almost to good to be true, but it is. You sit there watching, studying, timing, seeing only what a surfer can see. It's time! You sprint to the waters edge, leap, and land gliding across the water on your board all in one fluid motion! Over a couple of walls of white water and across the calm between sets and you see the next set coming towards you. You paddle hard trying to get past the impact zone as the first waves starts to break with its lip aimed straight at you! You grab your rails, deep breath, and dive! Everything goes eerily calm, quiet, muffled. Then you hear the muffled, but still loud, crash of the wave, feels its lip punch the surface, roll across the back of your legs and start to pull you backwards. You aim for the sky, for air, for freedom, and blast out of the surface, feeling, hearing, seeing! God your ALIVE! You start paddling even harder. You made it. As you paddle over the shoulder of the next wave, you turn your head and look into the roaring, gaping, jaw of the barrel dying to be inside!
On the outside, you sit on your board..waiting. A seagull skims the water, a fish jumps, a dolphin surfaces. Your brothers and sisters in spirit welcoming you back! A part of you, you a part of them, all of you a peice of the masterpiece called Mother Ocean! You look outside and see the next set coming. The adrenelin starts to rise. You paddle into position. You let the first wave go by, the second, then you see the third. This is the one you want. It's standing, shaping, forming into the perfect wave. Paddling hard you race for the peak, feel the wave rise under your feet, head pointing down. Matching the waves speed, you feel its energy picking you up and spring to your feet! You glide down the face of this moving, roaring, liquid mountain, hitting the bottom turn you bend and lean, g-forces, energy, and skill all coming together as one. Halfway up the face a slight turn, fine adjustment and you set your line! The oceans energy pitching over you as you drag your hand across the wall of water standing, moving, throwing next to you! This is life, living, dreaming all together as one! For this is "Gods Green House"!

Hope We All Get A Lot Of This In 2005!!!

Happy New Year

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Replies:

Re: Looking Forward to this in the New Year, Happy New Year! -- Keenfish, Sat, Jan 01 2005, 10:07:32