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Subject: Using new fabrics-lame & silk Author: Anonymous [ Next Thread | Previous Thread | Next Message | Previous Message ] Date Posted: 14:00:40 03/15/01 Thu In reply to: K 's message, "Tips/Techniques" on 15:47:31 03/10/01 Sat I have made many dresses using velvet and gabardine but my customers are now asking for silks and roc lame. Is there a technique for sewing/embroidering these delicate fabrics? Also I have noticed that roc lame is being used for the main body of some dresses - how? Replies: -What's roc lame? Never heard that term before. How's it diff from regular old lame? -Is "roc lame" the same thing as "satin lame' "? I just altered a fairly new dress with the sides made out of it. It's definitely the "flash" that some people want, but they won't last very long. I won't make one using it, except for appliqués. -I use a lot of raw silk. The first thing I do in interface every piece. It helps it hold up as well as keeps it from unraveling while sewing. Also, look for the silk without too many "bumps" in it. Upon wearing, the smoother the raw silk, the less it will pill up. Putting a dress together with the silk is so much easier than dealing with the velvet, butt I don't think the dresses will last as long. --What kind of interfacing do you use? ---I use a fusible medium weight interface -I have done my appliques using heat & bond light to fuse them into place, then satin stitching around the edges. I always pre-shrink all applique fabrics, lame, satin, metallics etc, then fuse them to pre-shrunk matching all cotton broadcloth. Then I trace the design onto heat & bond light and fuse to cotton side of applique, cut out and fuse into place. On the appliques make sure nearly all the satin stitch is on the applique fabric, with just the "zig" going over the edge into the base fabric. Prevents pull-outs which can be very difficult to repair in a completed dress. [ Next Thread | Previous Thread | Next Message | Previous Message ]

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[> [> Subject: Embroidery on Silk Dupioni Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 19:55:23 03/15/01 Thu I'm planning to embroider a silk dupioni and noticed on a practice sample that silk rips easily if you make a mistake. I wondered if I should use some type of stabilizer on the back of the sections I plan to embroider? If so, what kind should I use and how should I adhere it? Is it OK to iron on silk? Replies: -First I use a med weight fusible interfacing and then I use a heavyweight stabilizer behind that. It works great on the dupioni. -I have sewed and embroidered on Silk Dupioni for several years now. I have found that the woven fusible interfacing by HTC workd great with the silk. Make sure you steam shrink it as you fuse it to the silk. You also need to use a good stabilizer while doing the embroidery. -Iron Away! [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> [> Subject: Interfacing for Silk Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 20:36:03 03/15/01 Thu Can anyone please tell me what they use to back the dupion silk with to provide a bit more strength for the applique & embroidery I have been told that solidot is not suitable as it can stain the silk. Replies: -I just use a fusible interfacing on all the silk pieces and then use a heavyweight stabilizer in the areas that have applique and embroidery -I've been using a 'sew-on', woven interfacing on all pieces. Then a couple of layers of 'tear away' stabiliser behind the applique and embroidery........I have used 'iron-on' in the past but was unhappy with how it 'bubbled' in places as I worked on the embroidery! -When you use the sew-on interfacin on all pieces, do you actually sew or serge it to the silk? Do you still use heavy weight vilene after that? -I serge all my silk pieces to the interfacing, then I'm working with one layer! I work on all my applique and embroidery and still use the vilene to stiffen the skirt as you would with velvet, gabardine etc..... -(Do you ever have a problem with the serged layers "shifting" when you turn for the the embroidery? --No! I haven't found that to be a major problem......I do however use alot of pins to hold the 'tear-away' in place and I try to work from the inside of my design outwards, always starting with the applique then doing the embroidered knotwork. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]