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Date Posted: 21:36:13 02/08/09 Sun
Author: Gary, the Web Guy
Subject: Walnut stain

Doug wrote WWCH with this question.
If you'd like to write Doug with your answer his email in posted. If you'd rather post a reply I'll just forward your response to him via our WWCH mail account.

Dear woodworkers--

I'm having trouble achieving a suitably dark walnut color. Have you any advice?

I need to match some paneling from the 1970's that is a dark walnut. The original isn't
made anymore AFAIK -- its a thick masonite, with deeply embossed 3 dimensional woodgrain
texture and I don't know how they colored it; I can't detect any vinyl or paper facing
glued onto it. The back is stenciled J | 22 | RM.

I'm using an oak veneer 1/4" plywood panel. The quality of this panel is junk, but its
all I can get at Home Depot. The veneer is incredibly thin, backed by some even thinner
white stuff that must be tissue paper. It easily comes away at a sawn edge, and then
easily peels a long way. I've had a piece ruined by the peeling off already... Lucky I
don't really need to sand it, its quite smooth enough to begin with.

First I tried the MinWax water based poly, and it won't go dark enough. If I don't wipe
it off the color is perfect, but then its just like paint; no grain showing through.

Then I tried Watco Danish Oil, and it won't go dark enough. After several applications
its not getting any darker. I'm not leaving a coat on more than 30 minutes, I don't want
to end up with goo that I can't wipe down. Its cool to cold in the garage (warming up
after a sub freezing week).

Maybe I need to start over on another new piece, and leave first coat of Watco on for a
long time as mentioned in Ray Lancon's article?
http://www.wwch.org/Technique/Finishes/OilFin.htm

Or somehow open up the pores first?

TIA

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