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Date Posted: 20:01:55 07/10/01 Tue
Author: Chris Lawson
Subject: Stereo Upgrade News

I think I may have found a source for the speakers (finally!) since Foster-Culver seems to be OEM-only. I'll post more information once I have engineering samples from Shogyo and can try them out. I'm going for a setup similar to the one found here (Tsun's site) but I also have a source for totally flat, nonmagnetic speakers that I'm somewhat curious to check out.

The maximum dimensions of speakers that can be fitted where Mr Tsun puts them are as follows:

45mm by 70mm if you want maximum speaker size for the available space. These fit behind the wiring harness and will work ONLY in a Mystic, Power Mystic, original CC/CC2, or other 55x-type variant. This size is TOO BIG to fit in a PowerCC. See next paragraph...

25mm by 90mm if you want a longer (but thinner) speaker, probably to fit above the wiring harness. This is REQUIRED if you're not using the stock CC speakers and you're building a PowerCC, because the wiring harness has to be relocated farther forward in the chassis (where the speakers would be if you used the larger ones).

At this point, I'd say the best bet for doing a stereo upgrade on a PowerCC is to track down a donor CC speaker and simply put it on the opposite side of the chassis from the original speaker. Finding speakers of the dimensions (with appropriate impedance and audio characteristics) to fit the very narrow space above the wiring harness/logic board in the front of the chassis will be extremely difficult.

The above is what I'm doing with my PowerCC; I simply removed the speaker from my Mystic, along with the velcro bits, which I then glued in the appropriate places on the PowerCC chassis. I also took the time to break out the Dremel again and cut a hole for the sound to escape (since the chassis is nearly solid on the right side, behind the hard disk). Note that there's one small problem with this approach: the speaker "box" is ever so slightly too large to fit behind the HD's power connector nicely, at least where I wanted it to be. I had to custom-cut a new (shorter) power connector for the HD to get it to fit, but it looks great now that it's done.

Also, although it seems capacitor CS1 is not required, I'm still going to figure out what its value is, hopefully with a more accurate/reliable meter sometime in the next week or two. And MISUTHiKU, I'm taking your advice and putting a real 5.1kOhm resistor in place instead of substituting a 4.7kOhm one.

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