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Wed, February 05 2025, 04:50 [ Login ] [ Contact Forum Admin ] [ Main index ] [ Post a new message ] [ Search | Check update time | Archives: 1, 2, 3, 4, [5], 6, 7, 8, 9 ]

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Date Posted: - Monday - 01/ 4/10 - 11:25am
Author: Steve M-32 SEAN O'Sea
Subject: Electrical
In reply to: Randal, Murre, M31 's message, "More Questions" on - Monday - 01/ 4/10 - 12:22am

Oh boy, where to begin? I guess I'll start with the simple. "Marine Ignition protected" means that it is protected against sparking. The idea behind this is primarily with gas engines although it's not bad in regards to propane either. When you have an explosive, heavier than air gas on board (gasoline vapors, propane) it can build up in the bilge. That is why on gas powered boats you have to use a blower to vent the bilge before starting. It's also a good idea to do it on boats with propane installed. It's not required on diesel powered boats because the vapors aren't explosive. Diesel is rated as a combustible, not a flammable. I guess this a long answer to a short question but there you go.

As far as alternator size, there really isn't one that is too small but there is definitely one that is too big. A small alternator will charge your banks just as well as a big one, it will just take longer. When you get to the section of Calder regarding bulk charge vs top off charge etc I think that will become clearer.

I'm curious as to how you plan to maintain a charge in your starting battery?

A better investment for your money instead of a new alternator might be one of the multistage regulators on the market becuase the regulator was not designed to charge a house bank but a starting battery which has a different use/charge pattern than your house bank. Again, see Calder :-)

I'll stop here for now. Keep reading and ask away, I and the others here will try to not give you too much conflicting advice. One last thought. It is important to keep in mind what Calder is writing about. He is writing about an "off the grid" cruising boat with refrigeration, entertainment systems, pressure water etc. If your boat does not have all those goodies and you're not going out for more than a week at a time without pulling into a marina your system does not need to be anywhere near as robust as what Calder says is necessary. Calder himself tells you this in the book but it is easy to overlook that part.

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[> [> [> How do I charge the start battery? -- Randall, - Tuesday - 01/ 5/10 - 4:01pm

Check out the drawing on the previous post. Between the two switches I've installed an automatic charging relay that bypasses the switches and connects the batteries of both banks when **either** senses charge voltage coming from the other of 13 volts or more for 2 minutes. When this voltage drops belwo 12.75, the connection between the banks is severed.

Slick. And definitely works on Murre.

The reason I'm connecting to house is they are likely drained more than the start battery more often, and since the regulator senses only the bank it's connected to and defines charge delivered by that, I want it to sense the bank that needs the most help.

One error of mine that Calder has been kind enough to point out: I should have bought a deep cycle battery for start. The relay/regulator technology can't regulate charge to differing battery needs. The type of charge the heavy walled house needs is not the same as that needed by the thin walled start, so I will likely be overcharging the current start battery because house needs a heavier charge over a longer period.


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