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Sun, December 22 2024, 01:09 [ Login ] [ Contact Forum Admin ] [ Main index ] [ Post a new message ] [ Search | Check update time | Archives: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, [9] ]

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Date Posted: - Tuesday - 09/26/06 - 8:59pm
Author: Randall, M31, Murre
Subject: Similar on Murre
In reply to: John Bye 's message, "Bobstay bolt replacement" on - Tuesday - 09/26/06 - 7:03pm

I replaced the bolts and tang for the bobstay several years ago due to corrosion of the bottom bolt that extended into the tang. There was NO cotter pin in any of the bolts, rather the bolt was held in place w/a nylon lock nut. The 5200, generously applied on both sides of the hole during installation, got all over the threads and so aids in preventing the bolt from backing off.

I used marine grade stainless but don't now remember the specifics.

I check it religiously, both inside and out, and have found no hint of rust in the last 2+ years, this though the bolt is most always at lest partially under water. I wonder if the corrosion is driven largely by marina electrolosis. I've long ago STOPPED plugging the boat into shore power as a rule. The batteries hold plenty of charge w/out it, and if I want to run a drying fan or heater in winter, I run the power cord into the boat through the aft port and plug the fan directly to it. My gut says this reduces electrolosis risk tremendously.

After fastening your halyard, I might actually back off on the headstay turnbuckle first, this to reduce the risk of lifting the bowsprit when you back off on the bobstay. (But maybe that's just me: I've applied goop between the bowsprit and deck, this to avoid the potentially unseen damage of standing water, and would hate to break that seal.)

Hope that helps a little...

RR

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Replies:

[> [> Thanks, Randall -- John Bye, - Wednesday - 09/27/06 - 12:18pm

I think I'll go with the bolt and nylon locknut idea.


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