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Subject: Dress Patterns


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 15:27:13 03/10/01 Sat


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Replies:
[> Subject: Irish Threads


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 15:28:42 03/10/01 Sat


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[> [> Subject: Irish Threads Updated Pattern


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 13:49:20 10/11/01 Thu

Patterns.. We have been updating our Irish Threads patterns, adding options, resizing and perfecting, as well as adding 3 new sizes. The new issue will be ready in 30 days. Our garment bag pattern will soon arrive from the printers. Our dress pattern is now being used in 7 countries and we will soon have distributors across the ocean

-Pat, I tried to email you a question ... need to add 3-4 inches to the SKIRT LENGTH .. where do I add it - top of skirt or extend the length at the bottom? figure the bottom but I wanted to check. .. for some reason your email that I had here at work was bad.
--For lengthening always add to the bottom and be exact in adding equally around. When you go longer it gets wider . You can taper the width of the side panel off if it a very thin girl. Measure your new side seam to be sure it is still the original length. PatM

-Changes:
All of the sizes will have a tapered sleeve and cuff. Tiara patterns will be included. I have 2 more weeks to get and further changes sent in . All of the bodices are redrafted and small changes to the skirts. More instructions for alterations and how to add for growth.Any suggestions welcome within the next week. PatM

The garment bag is a double zipper ,full length with a rod and shoulder strap so it can be folded for carrying. It also has a support inside for the dress. I will be selling the sport zipper by the meter. PatM


Pat, overall I love your pattern but sometimes find the box pleat a bit big and the side panels wide. Will the alterations in the pattern have smaller front skirt pieces?
-Yes ,the side panels are narrower . Styles have changed a bit since I started. When they were first stiff the dresses were very wide coming from Ireland. PatM

When can we order the new pattern? 30 days is the end of July, will it be ready then? I am going to start on my daughters new dress after the Nationals, I can wait untill then but not much later.

-The pattern Co. has most of the work finished. The ladies sizes should be finished by july 10, 2001 and the girls shortly after. PatM

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[> Subject: Simplicity


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 15:35:59 03/10/01 Sat


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[> [> Subject: Questions-First Dress


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 18:14:39 03/10/01 Sat

I am making the Simplicity dress but there are a couple of points not addressed in the instructions. Could you guys help? This is my first dressmaking attempt.

1. Stiffener. Where can I get it, what type, thickness etc do I use for the front pleats?

2. Could someone explain briefly the steps for cutting and inserting the stiffener, since this is not included at all in the Simplicity dress. At what point is it inserted? How do I do it?

3. For embroidery (which I know is done before the sewing) what is the best approach? Do you trace the design on paper, cut it out and paint the design to the wrong side of fabric? Trace it with a special pen?

Pattern related Replies: (see also "Stiffner" and "Embroidery" subjects)
-try Irish Threads in Nova Scotia for Vilene to stiffen your dress. Cut it the same as the panels, baste it to the velvet after it has been embroidered and sew the back and front together. Sew the lining hem and watch out for pins. I always end up scratching my arms!

-If using the simplicity pattern, watch out for the neck line, it is cut more of a boat line than for a fitted neck, also the back seam of the skirt when it is cut arcs up at an angle, make sure when you stiffen your pieces, you do it individual the box panel, the side panel and back border piece and the other side panel and back piece, then sew the three together, also I’m not sure if it mentions to cut the part that goes behind your panels (like in the kick pleat, that you need to cut the back shorter than the piece that is in front, does this make sense, if not email me and I will try to explain better, hikiidmoms1@aol.com
kathi

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[> Subject: Costume type matching body type


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 21:26:20 03/13/01 Tue

What would the best style of dress be for a tall, very skinny girl -- box or split panel? Why?

Replies
-Definitely the box panel. With all types of clothing lines are placed, as you want the eye to follow. A split front will take your eye straight up the front. Also an angled shawl will look better. If you are doing 2-tone make sure you have the skirt border another color.

--I agree, and would also add that the t-shaped bodice would generally be more flattering, as it tends to add width to the shoulders.

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[> Subject: Measurements


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 13:50:29 03/15/01 Thu


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[> [> Subject: Dress Length


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 13:53:39 03/15/01 Thu

I am going to have my daughters school dress made by the school dress maker and I wanted a little advice on length.
Some of the most recent dresses I have seen at our school look a little big on the dancer, and I would suspect that parents ASK the dress maker to make them that way, to get a longer "shelf life". However, I feel our school dresses are VERY reasonable in price, $200. And if cared for, have an excellent resale value...so...I want my daughters dress to fit nicely, if she outgrows it, I'll resale, and rebuy. She is a dancer who has struggled along for quite some time, and is finally starting to get it together...she does not need the handicap of a too big dress. So...What length do you think looks good on young girls. (she is 8- average height, with loooong legs--she has good dancing feet and legs--her shortcomings, as a dancer, fall in the upper body--so we want that judge looking at the LEGS! LOL) And also...if you give a length in inches above the knee...is it about the knee with a pointed toe, or feet together?

Replies:
-between 2 and 3 inches above the knee, depending on the height of the child. Most 8 year olds I've seen go about 2 1/2 inches.

-To be consistent it is best to measure a dress from the ground when kneeling. For Irish Dancing dresses, our teacher like them to be 2 to 3 inches above the ground when kneeling. Obviously for a growing child this may end up being closer to 4 inches after a few months. But the initial measurement is 2 to 3 inches.

-2" above the knee with a pointed toe looks very tidy.

-Parents ask me all the time to make them a little long so that they'll last - which I sure understand, since I have a seven-year-old I can't seem to keep in pants long enough. But, considering "wear-time" isn't a big deal to you, try this - Measure you're daughter with her toe pointed, then with her feet together, to get a happy medium. A good length with her toe pointed may be pretty short when her feet are together. also, mark her waist with a string or piece of elastic to make sure both measurements are accurate. (Most eight-year-olds don't have much of a waist yet, and it's harder to get them accurate without marking the waist.)

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[> [> Subject: Initial measurements


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 15:21:52 03/15/01 Thu

I am taking my daughters measurements to have her school dress made. The dressmaker is about 3 1/2 hours away...so we are doing by mail. My question is, when I measure her, do I allow any "extra" room in the measurements in the waist? Or do I assume that the dressmaker will automatically add a certain amount of room so the dress isn't tight on her. This seems like a dumb question...but the process is just making me nervous!!

Replies:
-Important: Talk to the seamstress to find out what measurements she wants. I measure my kids a certain way when I am making their Irish dance costumes that is very different than normal sewing measurements. I measure for finished measurements on length of skirt and length of bodice and length of sleeves, but I measure exact measurements for waist and chest. I do add some, to allow for growth, but I want the exact measurements to begin with, for the chest and waist. So it is best to get directions from your seamstress as to how she wants you to measure and what measurements to make. Don't make any assumptions and communicate with your dressmaker, otherwise you may end up with an unpleasant surprise. I think I would even make the 3 1/2 hour trip for the first measurements. I think it would be worthwhile. Then too you could discuss your concerns about leaving room for growth.
My daughters first solo costume that we bought (used) left huge amounts of seam allowance in the waist (for letting down the skirt about 3") and huge amounts in the side of the bodice (about 4" each side), but nothing in the sleeve seam. So if I did let out the bodice at the side, then the sleeve would be too small. Talk about poor planning. Unless I wanted to make new sleeves and try to match a difficult shade of green velvet, I was out of luck.

-The dressmakers usually take exact measurements and build in extra room for alterations, etc. When taking measurements, tie a piece of string around your daughter's waist so you can get length measurements correct.

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[> [> Subject: Off the Rack Suggestions


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 17:18:56 09/15/01 Sat

I'm making an off the rack dress (my first) and would like to leave some extra seam allowance for length and other alterations. Where is the most critical area? I'm thinking that the bodice to skirt seam would be one area. Also, I'm using the Irish Treads pattern.

-With the Irish Threads pattern, the bodice seems to run short anyway, so definitely add a couple inches there. Sleeves are another area, make a cuff that can be moved up or down if needed.

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[> Subject: Room for Let out/Adjustments


Author:
Anonymous
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Date Posted: 12:41:23 03/14/02 Thu

Where do you leave extra material to let out the dress?
And how do you make a waistband bigger? (when you are letting it out)

Replies:
-If there's extra fabric in the waist area of the skirt and bodice, you can expand some by taking out the zipper letting out some of the extra and re sew in the zipper.
-I also leave a little extra at the zipper area as well as the side seams. This helps when they grow across the upper torso.
-Also, see suggestions under Pattern/Off the rack

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