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Subject: Contruction Problems-Technique & Tips Author: Anonymous [ Next Thread | Previous Thread | Next Message | Previous Message ] Date Posted: 15:45:15 03/10/01 Sat [ Next Thread | Previous Thread | Next Message | Previous Message ]

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[> Subject: Practice Dress & New ID Dress Makers Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 21:29:06 03/12/01 Mon For all the dressmakers out there, how long did it take you to get your dresses "just right". I read about moms deciding to make a dress for their daughters, not having done this before, and remembering what my first Home Ec clothes looked like, I wonder if you can get these solo dresses right on the first try. How many did you throw out before you decided you had the design style, embroidery and dress pattern just right? Just curious. Replies: -I have to admit that my dresses get better with each one. I used to say to the owners of the first dress that I embroidered that I would be embarrassed by it one day. The funny thing is, everyone who looks at my portfolio comments on how nice that particular dress is. I charged $1000.00 Canadian for it, and when I added up my time and materials it cost me $2700.00 to make! I have much better sources now. Thank heavens! So I guess that I got the first one right, but now I can do them in a reasonable amount of time. -I too have been sewing since "Home Ec" in 7th grade, and have been sewing for a living for 20 years. When it came to these dresses I figured "No big deal", but boy, was I wrong! My first dress, 1&1/2 years ago, was my "dress from hell". I never threw it out, but I was tempted! Couldn't find the velvets I wanted, had to draft my own pattern from scratch, and had no knowledge of the Vilene. The customer offered to be my guinea pig and pay me $1000, so what could I say? I embroidered the box pleat 3 times before I was happy with it, put it together, and the customer was happy. The teacher, however, (who hadn't returned my calls) hated it, so it came close to causing me some problems. I've now recut parts of the skirt twice, and the customer is tickled to death. The dancer gets wonderful comments on her dress now, but I still don't like it. I don't even want to know how many hours I put into that dress! If I'd added it up, I probably would have stopped at that one. I've made 9 more since then, each one a bit faster though, and have orders for 5 more right now, so I guess I'm figuring them out ;} Plus, thanks to the Internet, my fabric selection is coming right along now. I'll be heading to the Nationals in a couple of weeks just to check out the newest styles, so I can keep up on them. -My first try was definitely not just right, but I was stuck with it anyway, and the mistakes were really only obvious to me. I had made it out of muslin first before I made the velvet one. -practice dresses-in the process now. Started making the bodices of 2 different styles with left over material. One bodice (solid color )went well. Second bodice (bicolored) didn't go so well. But I must tell you that I also enlarged both patterns-I got them in a smaller size then needed. The one that went together very easy was Simpicity's costume. The other was an Irish Threads design I borrowed from a girlfriend. The fault with the Irish Designs was my own !!! -Hi, I'm new to the board but like what I see, my first dress was for my daughter, but i had a lot of help with how it was done, i wrote pages and pages of notes, and the dress just came back to me again to be sold( it now the third owner and i look at it I can see the mistakes but everyone else seems to love it. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> Subject: Detachable cuffs Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 21:29:34 03/13/01 Tue My daughter's school dress has white satin cuffs. I am wondering if it is possible to make the cuffs detachable so that I can have two sets made, or at least, can clean them without cleaning the whole dress. Is this possible? If so, could someone suggest the best way to do this? I will not be making the dress myself. Our school's dressmaker will be making it. I would be happy to pay her extra to do this if it is possible. Replies: -Detachable cuffs are easily done - you just finish off the sleeve and cuff separately, adding Velcro. I've done this for a couple of people. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> Subject: Putting the Dress Together Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 21:39:26 03/13/01 Tue What do you find is the toughest part of putting the dress together once it has been embroidered. I think it is a tossup between attaching the bodice to the skirt, and getting the zipper right. Does anyone have any pointers? attaching the skirt!!! Replies: -Attaching the skirt is the hardest. I gave up on the zippers a long time ago and hand pick them. In the long run it is quicker and less frustrating. I put the top half of the zipper in the bodice beforehand and then only have to sew the last third into the skirt after the bodice is attached. -First always sew the top half of the zipper in the bodice before you sew the bodice together. The other thing I do is leave the back of the skirt open until after I attach the bodice. Then sew up the back seam, finish the zipper by hand. You can go over it later by machine if needed but a hand picked zipper is fine. Then you will need to slipstitch the skirt lining up the back seam and around the zipper. -I attach the back bodice to the back skirt, then put the zipper in. I attach the front bodice to the front skirt, i have the lining sewn onto the front box panel and pleat. The pleat I have cut in half, I don't fold it. I attach the front to the back at the shoulders, add the sleeves, and then sew up the to sides. I attach the back lining, this is one piece that goes from the zipper to the pleat. I cover the seam with piece of lining folded over. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> Subject: Attaching Skirt + Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 22:11:11 03/13/01 Tue I am making my an ID dress for my daughter and really have some questions about some construction issues. Biggest problem is attaching the skirt for that professional look. My front panel does not want to have sharp edges if you know what I mean. Do you sew the skirt pieces together and then attach to the bodice of do you sew them on one at a time and then sew up the seams? Some dresses I have looked at appear to do that. Do you hand or machine sew the hem? Do you hem before sewing up the seams? I am sorry to be asking so many questions but these things just become more and more of a mystery the more I try to sew one. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Replies: -I put the zipper half in the bodice, then sewed all the skirt lining pieces together making one big circle, and I pressed all the seams open. ( you get a nice big circle!) Then I did the same with the skirt, sewed the two together at the bottom and pressed. (this gives a nice finished hem.) I then inserted the vilene stiffener and pinned the side pleats/ front panel together. Next I pinned the skirt to the top and sewed it all by machine. I went back, finished the zipper and hand stitched the bodice lining to the back and to cover the skirt seam. I found I needed to practice more with the zipper because some of my lining peeked out, but the shawl hid them so I was pretty lucky. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> Subject: Machine won't make it through bodice/skirt seam Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 15:41:00 03/15/01 Thu Do you think it would be easier to attach the bodice to the skirt of a solo dress using an industrial machine. I have a Kenmore and even with using the heaviest duty needle, the needle will not penetrate the thickest part of the skirt top. A friend just purchased a sewing machine (industrial?) that was used in high schools, has anyone ever purchased one of these machines? Replies: -I haven't had any real problems with needle penetration when attaching the skirt and bodice, and I use a Kenmore computerized machine. I use a size 90 jeans needle, which has a sharp point to penetrate the layers. Use a short stitch length to avoid gaps if you skip a stitch occasionally. Loosen your tension slightly as you need more thread in each stitch because of the number of layers. You may need to hand wheel over the thickest front pleats, but it can be done. I've found the most difficult part to be holding and turning the seam under the presser foot. It is much easier to have someone help you with that part -- my 13 year old dancer has gotten very good at turning the bulk of the skirt as I stitch. -I prefer using my industrial machines on all of the dresses I make (including the class costumes), as I don't have to slow down at all. The only drawback is the cost of one of these machines, however, if you have a friend who has one, I would ask nicely, and be sure to wipe it down and clean it out prior to leaving. -I make solo dresses (www.seamssewnice.com) and I use a Singer 20U33. I have 2, one as a back up. It does a 9MM zig zag for the embroidery and applique stitch, and is wonderful for sewing the dress together, I think it would sew through 3 layers of steel! Anyway, I also have acquired a brand new Brother industrial zigzag and the motor that I would love to sell. I don't need 3 machines. It is almost exactly the same as the 20U33. Let me know if you might be interested or pass the info on. Mary Staffrey mstafrey@aol.com 330-783-1316 [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> Subject: Zippers Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 22:19:46 03/13/01 Tue I'm putting together some school costumes and wondered about putting in zippers. When do you put them in? I've looked at some solo dresses and it seems the zippers are put in last? The first dress I made I put the zipper in the bodice piece and then sewed the remainder to the skirt when the dress was all assembled. It didn't come out as nice as I thought it would...any tips or suggestions? Replies: I always sew my zippers in before I sew the side seams together. I find you get a very neat zipper this way, then I hand sew the remaining part of the zipper to the skirt at the very end. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> Subject: Zipper poll Feb 2007 Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 13:52:40 02/27/07 Tue What type of zipper do you use? votes percent 1. Heavy Duty Plastic 56 62.92% 2. Heavy Duty Coil 6 6.74% 3. Regular Plastic 15 16.85% 4. Regular Coil 6 6.74% 5. Invisible 5 5.62% 6. Other 1 1.12% Total Votes: 89 [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> Subject: Updating Used Dress & Redo Cape Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 12:28:58 03/15/01 Thu Recently we bought a used velvet solo dress. It is my daughter's first dress. It is somewhat old fashioned and has been through at least 3 dancers. It did not come with a cape or crown and the skirt seems very "limp" to me. I do not sew and there is not a seamstress experienced in solo costumes nearby. My questions are: can a seamstress who does embroidery on other types of clothing possibly match the cape to what is on the dress now? How should I tell her to construct it (ie stiffening)? How long should it take and how much should I expect to pay? What can I do about the limp skirt ( I notice all the new ones are very stiff, this one is a split panel).? How difficult would it be to replace the collar ( it is currently a thin material, I think it would look better in velvet)? Replies: -Without actually seeing the dress, it's hard to say, but here goes...First, can the velvet be matched? For the crown, a shade off might not be noticeable, but for the cape you'd want it really close. Sometimes matching velvets can be a problem, but not always. Since it's an older dress, is the embroidery chainstitched by hand, or a machine satin-stitched? You could also consider the option of having a satin cape made with no embroidery. As for the stiffener, Vilene or a product similar should be used, but I wouldn't suggest having someone who is not experienced do it, as the entire skirt has to be taken apart and reconstructed. I charge in the neighborhood of $100 for new stiffener, but that can change according to how it was made, if the lining will then need to be replaced, etc. Is this a dress that your daughter will be able to wear for a while? Hopefully so, but if not, consider how much money you really want to put into it, and if you'll get a decent return with resale. Overall, you could easily be looking at $200-$300 to get it done - possibly more. Does you teacher have any suggestions? What area of the country are you in? Perhaps one of us can come up with someone to help you out. --Thanks for the reply! I think I have matched the velvet, it is black and so, not as difficult a shade. I believe it is machine embroidered, and I know that these days they can replicate almost any pattern. You make a good point about how much money to put into this project. I kinda thought $200 would be in the ballpark for what I want done. This dress should last her a year but maybe only a half, considering her growth rate right now. Hopefully with the changes I am making it won't be too old fashion to sell again at that time. I have a question. I see Vilene mentioned a lot on these pages. Is it what is in the new dress that stand out so nicely? Thank you for your suggestions. Our teacher is very busy with the Oireachtas and I am more or less on my own with this. I live in the metro Atlanta area if anyone knows of someone who is experienced with these dresses. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> Subject: Update your Dress Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 20:16:13 03/15/01 Thu I was at a feis this weekend, and I got quite a few rude comments on my dress. I have my solo, but it is somewhat old. It is kelly green and lime underneath. It is embroidered in a very simple design with my family name on the cape. There is a split pleat in front and it is made of velvet. I have to admit I got the dress (as a 2nd hand) 3 years ago. I am not ready to get a new dress, and my mom has no time right now to sew one. For now, is there any way that I can update it at all? I have some experience sewing but not enough to make a whole new dress. I wouldn't be afraid to try something small. I was wondering if I made a two shoulder cape would that help? Also adding rhinestones? If you really think that I should just wait and not spend the money on this dress, please let me know all your ideas! I don't plan to keep this dress for more than a few months, though. Replies: -A square shawl might help, but a better idea might be to change the sleeves. You could do something with sequins, lace, or a fabric to match some of the embroidery. Do you still have a cuff that you could attach? If you do remove the sleeves, keep them intact so that you can use them as a pattern for the new ones. -I agree, the easiest way is to change the sleeves. There is one dancer I have seen from another school who has changed hers 3 times. Confetti dot fabric will definitely brighten it up. Also, if the dress doesn't already have rhinestones, add some. They can be glued on with drycleanable jewel glue. Another thing you can do is to hand stitch some attractive cording along the collar and seams of a princess bodice. All this can be done pretty inexpensively. Good luck and let us know how it turns out. -Believe it or not, it's already done. The sleeves look great! My mom's friend who is an amazing seamstress also made a new cape (2 shoulder). The dress looks so much different that I can't believe it. Also, some of the "pretend" rhinestones were added. I am so thankful for all your suggestions, I will definitly visit your new board! -You could also add an overlay type yoke if the embroidery on the bodice would accomodate it. Perhaps a lace, hologram or glitter ball fabric outlined with a color from the embroidery. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> Subject: Make Side Panels Stick Out Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 13:39:50 03/15/01 Thu Okay, the Oireachtas is this weekend and I found out yesterday that my daughter's teacher is going to let her go. I've been working on a dress for her that is 99% finished, but have been taking my sweet time since I didn't think she'd be going to the Oireachtas. The dress turned out lovely, although the back is not as flat as I'd like but the cape will cover that. All I have left to do is add a collar, sew the bodice to the skirt (the one part that I dread) and add a zipper. Now, I've basted the bodice to the skirt and had her dance in the dress. She dances with her hands behind the front side panels so you cannot see them. The dress looks lovely, but when she dances, the side panels flatten out, and you can see her entire arm. So, I pinched the side panels and pinned where the side panel is sewn to the back and this seems to work. How do I sew this so the panels will continue to stick out. Now, I just don't think it would be appropriate for me to sew through the side panel because you would be able to see the threads (unless I put rhinestones over the stitching). My question is how does everyone make the side panels stick out? I used the Irish Threads pattern. The dress is a box pleat with two side panels, both are stiffened with a heavy vilene (heavier than what Irish Threads provides). I noticed on some dresses at the dance studio tonight that where the side panel meets the back panel, the seamstress sewed a 1/2 pleat. Is this what everyone does and does it help the panel stick out? Replies: --I haven't tried the Irish Threads pattern yet, so I'm not sure how Pat drafted the pattern. I ran into the same thing with my first couple of dresses, and figured out a couple of ways to fix it. First, is the top of the side panel very curved? If it is, shave off a little toward the side seam and it'll pull those pleats back out. Also, make sure that when the dress is on your daughter that the waistline is very even all the way around. If it dips down on the sides at all, it can cause the side panels to droop. I always put a side pleat into my dresses, figuring if nothing else it leaves a little more grow room in the waistline, and I think it also helps the skirt hang nicely. If all else fails, pop in some boning towards the bottom of the skirt. Good luck with your daughter's dress -- We know it's a labor of love, which will make it even more special to her! -Thanks everyone. The dress is finished except for hand sewing the lining to the zipper. I think I took apart the waist 100 times and now it seems to work well. The dress does not flatten, but I would like it to stick out a little more so I think I may get safety pins and give it a pinch underneath where no one can see it. --I am glad your dress worked out. Yes you definitely have to put little pleats at the top of the side panels to make them stick out. It works wonders! We also use great big clothespins to pin the kick pleats down (cause they are so stiff at first) and then flatten your dress on the floor and put the biggest heaviest thing you have on it for a few days to make it settle (I use the oak insert from our kitchen table). [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> Subject: Problem with front panel Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 19:49:22 03/15/01 Thu I hope someone here can help me. My daughter's new school dress is beautiful but the front panel doesn't lay flat when it is on. It seems to be bowing out in the center. I didn't make the dress, but I used to design and sew girls victorian dresses and christening gowns so I'm not afraid to try to fix it, rather than bothering the seamstress ( who still has about 12 more dresses to make). I wondered if possibly taking the dress apart at the waist and raising the skirt on the sides might help or if I should try to insert boning in the front of the panel. If I do use boning, can i just buy the kind that they sell in fabric stores like Joanne's or the Fabric Place or is there a special type? The fabric stores sell it on a roll and I'm not sure if the curve comes out or not. Replies: -This is what I think is wrong... a classmate of my daughter has this problem with her solo dress. She has the dress for 2 years and it has never corrected itself even after laying the dress flat with weights on the front panel, the panel still bowed in. What I think may have caused this problem is that the seamstress inserted the stiffener incorrectly. The stiffener I used comes on a roll, so there is a natural curve when it is cut. I insert the stiffener with the curve facing foward, not toward the leg, so when you sew the seams, it flattens the stiffener. This has worked well for me and the front panel always lays nice and flat. If you sew the stiffener with the curve toward the legs, sewing the seams will only make the front panel follow the curve of the stiffener and bow out. If you're going to take the dress apart, new stiffener or reversing the stiffener may help. I used the boning they sell in sewing stores on my daughter's first dress, along with stiffener. I didn't feel it did anything to help with panel stay stiff. It's basically a flexible plastic with material over it. I have seen metal boning, but haven't tried it. I don't using boning any longer, just a good stiff vilene and her dress looks great. -How I corrected a similar problem..... When I first started making dresses I had this problem. It turned out to be the cut angle of the front panel. By narrowing the top of the front panel you can fix this. It was hit and miss until I got my pattern designed correctly. Boning doesnt seem to help because it is flexible and just follows the bend of the garment. -As a full time Irish dance dressmaker I have found 2 causes of this problem . The main one being the shape of the top of the panel . It should be almost straight with very little curve to it .A curve here will always cause the panel to bow out . The other thing is how you crease the pleats under . They should be folded under and basted in place while the panel is flat and they should lay perfectly flat.Don't force the seam allowances at the top to be even beacause if the pleat buckles up the panel will bow . As for boning the stuff in the stores is meant to curve with your body so it will not help at all. Irish Threads sell a boning that works great. -Here's what I've done to correct similar problem. Recently I had to fix a dress for a friend here is what I did. Check how the skirt is attached to the bodice. Sometimes when they are stitched together the skirt can get caught up so that it is pulled up higher in one area than another. This will cause it to bow out. If you open the seam in that area and let the part that is caught up drop down and restitch it the panel should lie flat. Hope this helps. -I recieved a used school costume instead of a new one, and it had what sounds like a similar problem. I was told to lay the dress flat for storage and put a few heavy books on the place it sticks out. I dont know if this will work for you, but I always store my dress like this and when I dance the pannel stays flat. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> Subject: Extra pleat added to pattern for side panels Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 16:41:12 09/15/01 Sat In the high-end solo dresses (Threads of Green, in particular), they add a small, 1" (approx) pleat in the top of the skirt right at the side seam to help the side panels face front instead of flattening out. I've been using the Irish Threads pattern for my daughter's school's dresses. It does not have this pleat and I'm wondering if it's simply a matter of adding an inch or so to the side seams and making a tuck, or is there some more advanced drafting technique required? -Hopefully I can help. When I started making dresses 6 years ago, I just added what I needed to the waist to make a pleat. I also agree that a pleat is needed at the side seam to make the skirt sides face forward. I've tried making a skirt with no side pleat and it didn't lay right. The key to having the sides stand out, is getting a pattern that does not have a full circle skirt (Irish threads is the only one I know of), and to use stiff vilene and possibly boning. Pat sells both of these as well. -I adjust the side panel piece as follows: Measure in about 1 inch at the top side seam and mark it. Then with a straight edge, mark down to the actual bottom side corner. This changes the angle of the piece and makes it stick out better, not so much falls into the pleat. I also use boning in the side panel along the bottom, from the side seam to the point where the pleat will fold. Hope this helps, I've tried alot of different things, and this works best for me. --I'm not understanding either. If you're measuring in an inch at the top side seam, you are decreasing the waist measurement of the skirt, and moving the skirt side seam closer to the front (away from the side seam of the bodice.) Where do you make up the inch you moved in--at back side seams or center back? I'm not sure I can see how this would help. I see on many top-of-the-line dresses (ie. Threads of Green and Sciopa Rince) an actual pleat at the side seam, but am unsure of how it is drafted into the pattern. ---The inch lost comes out of the top portion of the pleat. It just changes the angle of the sides so they stick out more. I believe the new Irish Threads patterns are going to be doing something similar...from what I have heard on this board. I have also made a pleat at the side on some of the larger dresses I do. I altered a pattern using stiff felt and a dressmaker's dummy. It was just a matter of trial and error (lots of them). -I have not had trouble getting my side panels to stick out. Just follow the instructions with the pattern and that will do the trick. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> Subject: Skirt Length Problem Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 14:11:23 03/15/01 Thu I am making an irish dance dress. I used the pattern we had used to make the one before, but I made this skirt much stiffer. I sewed the front bodice onto the skirt and then tried to dance. It was so stiff and long (about 2" above the knee) I couldn't cut. When I raised the skirt up I could dance. The problem is, I can only bring the skirt up so high before I cut into the design and then if I bring it up on the bodice it looks VERY short waisted. I am desperate. I have spent so much time and money making this "dream dress". I spent hours basting and measuring so that all the stiffener and interfacing was just right. Taking some up on the bottom is not possible. I made the appliques to totally cover the skirt. I thought that this dress would be done yesterday. I had no idea that with it this stiff I wouldn't be able to dance. Please--someone help!!! Replies: -I would sacrifice a little of the design on the top since your number goes there anyway. -I agree with losing a little of the top. I have spent alot of time on critical parts of designs only to have them covered by the number. It is more important that you be able to dance your best and be comfortable in your costume. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> Subject: Front of Dress Pulling Up—Bodice/Skirt Length Problem Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 13:27:20 03/14/02 Thu I have a problem with my daughters new dance costume that I am hoping someone can help me with. The front panel is straight but when she is on stage and ready to start (toe pointed and posture pulled up) the front of the dress pulls up and makes the dress look too short! You can also see right up the front of the dress (not all the way but more than I would like). When the front lies flat the length is perfect and the back length is perfect. I had the dressmaker look at it and she fixed what she thought would help but it hasn't (helped). I really don't want to send it back again because it will take forever to have it returned and I'm not convinced the dressmaker knows how to fix it. Any ideas or suggestions on what is wrong and/or how I can fix it(or a dressmaker)?? Replies: -Sounds like the bodice is too short and the waist is not fitted properly without seeing it - this is just a guess. Sometimes, the overall length may be correct as you have described however, if the bodice is cut too short, it makes the skirt look too short even if it isn't. Also, it is very difficult to get a snug fit at the waist if the skirt is attached any higher than one inch below the natural waistline. This will remain a problem if there is no extra length in the bodice. -- I'm confused as to why a skirt needs to be attached 1" below natural waist to be snug. Once you travel down the body from the natural waist, the torso starts to increase in size. Also, is the extra length in the bodice required only so that the skirt won't appear too short or is there a technical reason (from a construction standpoint) for doing this. I fit my school's dresses snug at the waist and they only appear short if the child is particularly short-waisted, (but I account for this in skirt length). [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> Subject: Other panel problems/techniques Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 13:27:34 04/03/01 Tue [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> Subject: Stiffiner in Skirt technique Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 14:03:41 04/03/01 Tue Overlock the panels and stiffner together before sewing the panels together, this also makes the dress easier to work with.it allows you to stretch the material over the stiffiner and this evens out any bumps the embroidery creates. Use two layers of stiffiner for the box pleat and one in the rest of the skirt. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> Subject: Pleating the front panel Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 17:16:17 09/15/01 Sat I have used the Irish Threads pattern with good results. However, I now see that alot of dresses pleat the front instead of the side panels. The look is basically the same, except the seam is in the pleat instead of at the side of the front panel. This seems nicer to me. So, my question, is what pattern does this, and would the irish threads work to this is the front panel is cut wider and the sides narrower? -Yes Irish Threads pattern would work this way. just transfer the half of the pleat to the front panel PATM -In the Irish threads dresses, the pleat in front is formed by folding the side panels under the front about 1/2 way. In the dress I described above, the front panel is cut wider and folded to create the two side pleats. This makes a smoother looking front panel because there is no seam there. OP -Sounds like a good idea, unless you want piping along the sides of the front panel. I have been piping the bodice princess seams of my daughter's dresses and continuing it down the sides of the front panel. Gives a nice vertical line to the dress and helps to unify the design. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> Subject: Inverted Pleats Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 13:01:26 03/15/02 Fri I'm about to start a new dress with inverted pleats. The last dress I made using Pat's pattern, boning and stiffener and some advice from this board came out so well and went together without a problem. (Thanks everyone!) Now I face a new challenge of inverted pleats and again my questions are 1. Are the seam allowances on the Irish Threads pattern or do I add them on and 2. Do I use the stiffener with the contrasting "inverted pleat fabric" because I know there's a fold line and wondered if with the stiffener, will it make a sharp fold? Replies: -the patterns say that they have seam allowance at the edges -- some are 5/8 some are 1 inch -- pattern pieces say where is what. I use stiffener in the pleats (but lighterweight only) and boning at the TOP of the pleat to make it open fully. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> Subject: Skirt Lining Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 16:46:30 09/15/01 Sat [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> Subject: Serging the lining Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 16:50:45 09/15/01 Sat I have used the Irish Threads pattern and have completely sewn the skirt, the lining and then put it together. So, all seams are inside. When looking at my daughter's siopa rince dress the pleat seams are serged together. This seems so much easier. So, what do you guys do? if I have a machine that overlocks, do I need a serger too? What serger do you all use? -Do you know anyone who has a Threads Of Green dress that you can look at? The seams are put together like Siopa Rince, but then binding is made out of the lining fabric to cover the seams. I make mine the same way. Much more "finished" looking, and wears better. -I have seen this, too. It is much prettier. So, do you sew the front, then the back and attach the skirt and then sew it together? Just curious. This would seemingly make the whole zipper thing easier. -I think the way Terrie finishes them looks very professional. I do not know a lot about sewing but I was surprised to see a Siopa Rinca dress serged with white thread on bright orange lining, I would have thought the fabric and thread color should match, especially considering the cost of these dresses. So I suggest serge and finish like Terrie suggests. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> Subject: Lame as Skirt Lining Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 13:47:12 03/15/02 Fri Was wondering what is used as a backing for tissue lame when it is used to line a skirt. I use Form Flex by HTC to stablize lame that is used for small appliques, but I'm afraid of major puckering if I use it on large expanses of fabric. Replies: -You can still use form flex by HTC for the stabilizing of tissue lame for use as a lining. I would suggest that you do pre shrink the stabilizer first. Just pop it in the washer and let it go through a rinse cycle and spin dry. Then--hang it over a shower curtian rod or whatever to dry. Now--you must pretreat the tissue lame as well. Tissue lame has not only metallic threads, but also nylon threads in the weave. This is why it will melt. You can shrink it one of 2 ways. You can use the steam from a good steam iron to preshrink it. When using this method, you need to hold the iron just off of the surface and give it a shot of steam. I happen to own a steam generator iron and it works great for this. The other way that you can shrink the lame is to seal the ends--either with Seams Great tricot tape, a heat knife, or a zig zag. This is a must as you do not want the fabric to unravel. After finishing the edges, put a wet piece of muslin--about 18 inches by 18 inches, in the dryer with the lame. Set temperature to warm--not hot and tumble until the muslin is dry. the moisture from the muslin will create steam, which in turn will cause the lame to shrink. My preferred method is using the steam from an iron. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> Subject: Bodice/Sleeve Lining Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 17:21:17 09/15/01 Sat [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> Subject: Material to use for lining Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 17:27:23 09/15/01 Sat I'm making a very simple adult, princess line dance dress out of silk dupioni. Could a seamstress out there tell me what's the best material to use as the lining for the bodice and sleeves? A seamstress at our local sewing shop -- not an ID dressmaker -- suggested a rayon rather than a mid-weight cotton, which is what I used for a velvet dress of the same style. True you need to line silk with something a bit more flowy and soft? -I use cotton for the bodice, but I use a regular lining fabric (slick kind) for the sleeves. Most of the dancers I have worked with like the slick lining for sleeves as they slide on easier. So I have been told. -COTTON ...... best bet [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> Subject: Bodice Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 12:43:36 03/15/02 Fri [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> Subject: Bodice Too Short Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 12:48:23 03/15/02 Fri Is there any way I can rescue a real screw up? Somehow I ended up with a bodice that is one inch too short for my daughter's dress. Short of buying new velvet and re-embroidering the bodice (it's done by hand), is there ANYTHING I can do? I'm so discouraged. Replies: -You could do a belt-like insert that goes completely around the bodice and attaches to the skirt. You could even embroider it with some knotwork that ties it to the rest of the design so it doesn't look like you altered an old dress. You probably will never be satisfied with it and kick yourself everytime you see it, but it would buy you some time so you could re-embroider an new bodice and fix it right... -You can also add length at the top by putting a yoke on the dress. Something that coordinates with the rest of the dress. Perhaps lace-overlay or something along that line. I also have seen the waistband look, but the one I saw looked like they were trying to save a dress that was too small. -(OP)what I ended up doing.... I had not yet embroidered the cape so I used that to cut out some of the bodice and with my left over velvet, I had enough to cut out the rest. I guess what I'm so bummed about is that I have to re-embroider all that knotwork. :-( Oh well, I have to go and buy some more velvet for another cape now......back to work!! -Could you square off the old bodice, add a border and stretch and frame the first piece? It wouldn't seem like such a waste then. Or maybe you could cut it down, and appliqué it on her dress bag? What about a pillow? -I like the dress bag idea, What a neat thought!!! [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> Subject: Extra room in the shoulder area Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 12:49:44 03/15/02 Fri I seem to keep having a recurring problem that I have not seen posted. I use Pat's fantastic patterns, but on almost every dress bodice, there seems to be extra material above the bust to the shoulders to the sleeve seam. I am curious what I might be doing wrong so that I can have the bodice lay more smoothly. Any help would be great, as I am sure everybody is currently sewing into the wee hours, I don't have the extra time for trial and error! Replies: -I haven't had this problem, but I use shoulder pads in all of my dresses. you can try sloping the shoulders a bit. I have had it both too wide and too narrow, but I don't mind it wide as again I use the shoulder pads and this also allows room for growth.. Also it helps to balance out the dress a bit [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> Subject: Adjusting in Back Shoulders Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 14:11:39 03/15/02 Fri I'm making a solo dress for a girl size 14. I made a trial top and although the front fit perfectly, the back seemed to be tight across the shoulders. Can I just add a 1/2 inch along the back seam to add a little allowance or is there a better way to just add a little more room in the shoulder area without adding more in the waist? -There is a way to adjust the upper back area. Do you need more room across the shoulder as well, or just across the back? Any pattern fitting book will help (Simplicity has some good ones). If you add at the CB, you will have to add to the skirt as well. -Adding to the CB will also widen the back neckline, which you may not want to do. The proper alteration would depend upon whether you wish to increase the length of the shoulder seam (from neck to armhole). You may find that you need to widen the back bÿ [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> Subject: Hemlines Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 12:53:53 03/15/02 Fri [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> Subject: Zig Zag Hem Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 12:58:01 03/15/02 Fri In quilting they're called "prairie points" and my daughter wants them around the border of her dress. Has anyone had experience doing this? Is it hard to do? Replies: -think I remember that there was a "Sewing with Nancy" show on the Prairie Points. You might check her catalog/website for a booklet or video tape. As I remember she had a simple way to do them. -pivot points hope this helps:http://www.kayewood.com/tips.html [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> Subject: Capes Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 09:46:08 08/03/02 Sat [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> Subject: Attaching Capes Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 09:48:06 08/03/02 Sat My daughter has a new velvet dress and we like the look of a cape that hangs straight down the back. (The cape is the traditional upside-down-kite shape). We tried hooks and eyes, but when she jumps it can bounce up and become unhooked. I'd rather not attach Velcro. How do you recommend attaching it at the top, on either side of the zipper, and how do I anchor it underneath to keep it from swinging out when she turns? Replies: -This works best for me: Velcro at the shoulders and elastic looped around a button at the waist. -I'm not crazy about Velcro either, but as a seamstress who's repaired quite a few, and made quite a few, it's your best bet. I don't know how many dresses I've seen with tears into the shoulders because of snaps and/or pins. Just check out your Velcro every so often to see if it needs replaced. Also, on this style of cape I'd suggest a ribbon sewn onto the waistline and one on the cape at the same level to keep the cape from flying out like some kind of weapon ;) You can tie it loosely enough for the cape to hang perfectly straight, but it'll be secure. (Just my two cents;) -Would it help if there were some sort of interfacing on the inside of the dress to reinforce where you put the snaps? Also, would it make more sense to have more snaps, taking the pressure off just two? --I've had good luck using three gigantic, about 3/4 inch across, snaps arranged in a triangle at the top of the cape. These capes are the "one shoulder with turned up tail" variety. I sew them through the dress, interfacing and lining using regular waxed thread. The three snaps seem to spread the strain over a larger area -- think back to high school geometry -- two points determine a line, three points a plane. They haven't come loose when dancing or torn the dresses. I've seen too many attached with Velcro come off during a competition. -The Velcro didn't hold for me. I sewed snaps ON TOP of the Velcro. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> [> Subject: Ties on Shawls Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 08:49:55 11/08/04 Mon Can someone please repost how they put the tie on the shawl and back of the dress to keep the shawl from flopping everywhere. -Loop of ribbon sewn onto the underside of the shawl, doubled-over ribbon sewn into the back seam opposite loop with ends sticking out so they will tie through the loop. - I hand sewed a white plastic circle (like you use for curtains) on the middle back of the shawl, and then sewed a ribbon onto the dress at the back waist / zipper area. I can tie my daughters shawl at her waist, and it doesn't flop all over. --Sorry, I'll try to be more clear--loop of ribbon sewn on the underside of shawl, facing the back of the dress, and ribbon "strings" sticking out of the back of the dress, tie them through the loop on the shawl to secure it to the back of the dress; just like plastic ring idea in above post. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> [> Subject: Attaching Cape Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 09:58:49 11/08/04 Mon What is the best way to attach a cape to the shoulder. On my daughter's first dress, we pinned it with a special pin but I see that it was causing some damage to the fabric. I've read about attaching snaps, Velcro, etc. Personally, I don't care for Velcro as I’ve seen the damage it can do to a dress if you aren't careful so I'd rather avoid it if possible. Does anyone ever attach the cape permanently? Replies: Many people get the cape sewn at the shoulder. One of the biggest problems with this is if you use the "lemon slice" dress bags. The cape is then folded in half and this can distort the line. Also, do not sew it into the shoulder seam. I had to alter a dress like this and the dressmaker had trimmed the bulk out of the seam, making it very difficult to get it back together after i had removed it. It was also too difficult to alter with the cape attached. --I agree with above poster, alterations are difficult when the cape is sewn in the seam. When I have people that want it sewn on, I do it on the outside of the dress. Place the cape on the dress right sides together with the cape going towards the front, sew the cape to dress on shoulder seam and then flip the cape back over the shoulder. You can then attach at the waist any way you wish. I usually use a ribbon tie. -I use a large safety pin on the underside (at the shoulder and at the hip). Then we just gently pin the decorative pin on top through the first layer of material. I never unpin the cape once it is pinned underneath. -I am NOT a sewing expert, by any stretch, but I have attached capes to my own dress, and my daughters by just using a bunch of snaps. The capes are the "two shouldered" kind, and you can't get out of the dress without taking at least one shoulder off. Originally, they were just pinned on with our broaches...but it seemed like over the years that will really damage the dress material. So I pinned the broaches onto the cape permanently, and added 3 or 4 snaps at each shoulder, and a couple across the back. I unsnap them carefully, so hopefully they will not start to "pull" at the material. I suppose even the snaps could start to cause wear eventually, but it must be less than pinning and unpinning every time we use the dress. -When I attach capes to the class costumes which I sew, I use clear snaps. They are great for easy removal (it makes is much easier for the girls to get their dresses off and on, and yet, does not look back when the cape is off as you do not see the snaps. --how large are they. i tried it with smaller snaps and they came off when I had my daughter jump around. Maybe I need bigger snaps? ---Try the big ones, we call them wopper poppers from my days doing theater costumes. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> Subject: Cutting Capes (fabric type) Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 09:55:01 08/03/02 Sat Our school has designed black velvet capes with satin blacking. How do you cut the capes from the fabric? Straight up and down? On some sort of bias? They are basically triangular capes that run a straight line down the left shoulder, straight across the bottom and angled across the back, pinned at the right waist. Could someone please give rudimentary instructions because we are not professionals by any stretch. Replies: -Most of the school capes you see, are actually a square, folded in half! If you’re making these for alot of dancers you may need to make a few standard sizes. The cape should not touch your border design. Once you decide on the length cut a square from your velvet to that measurement then lay it right sides together on your satin and cut out. Sew around each side leaving a 4-6" opening for turning. Turn to right side, press lightly and slip stitch the opening. If you use a lightweight satin, it may be best to use an iron on stabilizer. Top stitching the edges is also an option if you find it 'rolls' at the edges! Happy sewing! -The capes are generally cut with the vertical edge along the straight grain of the fabric, especially when using velvet. Be careful stitching the backing to the front along the slanted edge because it is on the bias and could stretch, preventing the cape from hanging smoothly. -After cutting on any angle just staystitch 1/8th inch inside the seamline. When you are working on it or sewing it together ...no stretching -It may be down to the fabric.. if its quite stiff then it probably doesn’t drape very well. But it could also be the shape.. most of the satin capes I’ve seen look like they have been made from a more rectangular piece of fabric, rather than square. The dimensions would affect the way it sits, and the over-all look. -You can put 2 or 3 small pleats about 1 1/2 inches down where you pin the cape near the hip, or just fold it over so that it isn't hanging way off to the side. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> Subject: Pleats Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 17:51:58 08/14/03 Thu [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> Subject: Inverted Pleats construction Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 17:56:07 08/14/03 Thu Is there anybody out there who could step me through inverted pleats? I"ll be honest...I don't even understand some of the sewing lingo. But, I have made a number of dresses (which look ok if you don't go too close LOL) and want to attempt inverted pleats. Replies: -I will try to walk you through it as best I can. I have made one split front panel and it uses an inverted pleat and this is how I did it. I will walk you through how I inserted the front pleat for the split panel. It works the same no matter what style you are doing. 1. Cut all pieces to size. On the two front panels I inserted the vilene and boning as normal. 2. Cut the inverted pleat as normal. Cut one full layer of vilene and then cut a second layer that will fit between the fold lines of the pleat. This is the area I used boning--from the fold to fold to hold the lining stiff. 3. Sew the pleat into the two panels. Fold to shape and let sit with some books on top of it overnight or use a press cloth with a good iron to get a good stable line for folding later. Finish constructing the rest of the skirt as usual. Add lining and fold all pleats. Baste aross the top of the pleat to hold in place while attaching to the bodice. I hope this has helped a little. It is much easier to do that we try to visulize it. Take it one step at a time and do not let it intimidate you!! - Necia -My method for inverted pleats, fast becoming my favourite sort of pleat! 1. I cut out the pleat in fabric and stabiliser, with fold and seam lines drawn on stabiliser. Overlock all edges. 2. I straight stitch along the fold lines with sewing machine. 3. Cut out 2 pieces of fusible stiffening - 1 for each of the narrow side sections, with the pieces 0.5cm less wide on each side than the section it has to be fused to.Iron on to stabiliser side of fabric with a steam iron. 4. Cut out 2 pieces for the middle section of the pleat, again 0.5cm less wide on both sides like before, iron them on one at a time with a steam iron. (This section needs more reinforcing than the sides) 5. I then attach the pleat to the front panel and side panels with 1" seam allowances. 6. When I attach the lining to the skirt I stitch down the fold lines of the pleat, going over the stitching line of before. 7. I hand sew the pleat in place securely at the waistline before attaching the bodice to the skirt. I found that by following this method I did not have to press the dress at all for the pleats to sit perfectly.The secret is in the little gaps between each piece of stiffening. They are sitting so well that I can't see a need for any boning at this stage. However, it is a small size dress, so my method may change for a larger size. This has been the easiest dress to make so far! I love inverted pleats! - Alywen [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> Subject: Reversed back pleats like Gavin D Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 09:34:02 11/08/04 Mon I was noticing this at Garden State Feis Sunday. Instead of the center back going over the sides, the side goes over the center. Am I making sense? It was almost like the panel was flipped inside out (construction wise) Also I observed that the side seams of the skirts are not in the "center" of the side of the dress, they are pushed forward so the front panels were flat across the front and the back panels sort of wrapped around the sides of the dress. A mom and I were discussing his construction and how the skirt sits well, which is why I paid particularly close attention. Very interesting...and I wonder if this is what makes the dresses sit so nicely. Replies: -I had posted below about this and am about to attach a skirt like this on the dress I am finishing this week. -It was like the whole back section of the dress was flipped inside out and the panels were extended so the back skirt met the front skirt more toward the front of the dress. I don't know if there is less movement or not. The girls have no problem dancing in them...one of our champs won and places often and she has one. You may be right though. I don't know it just seemed strange to me to have the back like that. I can see how pushing the seam forward may make the skirt sit more straight across in the front though. OP [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> Subject: Shaped pleats by Jess Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 15:30:29 09/30/05 Fri The front panel is shaped as usual, with the pleat "flap" underneath. Side panel is also shaped, but with no flap. I then put the pleat back onto the center front pleat flap as usual. All edges are bound, then I pin the side panel in place onto the pleat back. I then sew the two together along the existing embroidery lines. So a cross between having the pleats fully shaped, doing the "fax panel", and having a mock, appliqué side panel... this gives a better illusion of the shaping as the side panel IS shaped - you have the depth between the stitching and the pleat backing piece. Yet the pleat does not flap open - it sits the same way as having the center front as a box pleat. I know of at least one other dressmaker, very well known, who does her shaped pleats this way - I stole the idea from her ;) – Jess --...so your front panel and "inside pleats" are one piece that you sew the side panel to with the bound edge running along the inside of the side panel "shaped" edge? I altered a dress a while ago that was done like that, I think it was an Eileen Plater. I'll have to try that, it seems so much better then my way. Right now I do the full inverted pleats and by the time I get to the second side panel I have so much skirt to work with it's very hard to handle. ---- Yes, spot on! --Jess -- I've been wondering about trying something just like that! Didn't realize anyone had done it already....Do you make the bit of the pleat under the centre panel a bit bigger than for a box pleat, so that the "inverted" pleat opens nicely? Or do you leave it small and neat so the skirt doesn't flap around? Hope that makes sense! --So Jess, does that mean that you can see the embroidery line along the lining? And do you bind only the centre panel? I'm still trying to visualize what you do? ----On the center front panel, I add the "flaps" for the pleats as normal and shaped & stitched along the edge. Then I add the pleat back, and bind the seam on the front panel edge of the pleat back. I then also bind the side panel side of the pleat back - though it is not seamed to anything. With the side panel, I have no flap, but the edge where the pleat goes is shaped and stitched. I then lay out the front panel with its pleat backs sticking out at the side, and lay the side panel over the flap so everything lines up. I pin in place. Then with satin stitch I go along the existing lines of embroidery - though all the layers, to attach the pleat back to the side skirt. I don't re-embroider the whole side skirt, just certain long ways lines that will secure the pleat in place. From the inside you can see the underside of the satin stitching, but the obviousness of this is minimized by setting the machine tensions so the bobbin thread and top thread go just to half way each.. That way the front shows no under thread, and the underneath shows little or no top thread. Also best if you can use a thread in the bobbin that matches the shade of the skirt lining. When you see the skirt flip up on stage you don't see it. When I was first considering this I looked at the dresses I knew were made that way and looked for those satin stitched lines on the lining, and couldn’t find them! As I said, another far better known dressmaker than me uses this technique! I've been doing skirts like this since just after the worlds, and have not had a single complaint or query from customers about how the skirt looked. –Jess Another explanation by Jess, same method: Cut the back skirt as normal (normal for me includes a pleat at the side seam - you will need to add this if you don't already). Stiffen & line and finish your hem as preferred. Cut out side panel, with the shaping on the side edge. But no flap for the side pleat Stiffen, line and finish hem as preferred. You'll notice that the back skirt has a flap for a side pleat now - but the side skirt doesn't. You need to make that extra flap for the pleat as a separate piece. So from my "normal" skirt pattern, I'll trace off the side pleat section of the side skirt, with shaping to match the side skirt itself. Cut out in stiffening (normally one piece only) add dress fabric to the outside, lining to the inside and then finish of the bottom edge (all my dresses have satin stitched shaped hems so I just satin stitch the bottom edge of this piece). The flap is then pinned, and then straight stitched down onto the side panel - lining side to lining side. Then edge it same as you would for a shaped pleat. Once that's done, the back skirt is sewn to the flap of the side skirt as normal, and the raw edge inside the skirt bound.—Jess [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> Subject: Side Skirt Seam Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 08:59:38 11/08/04 Mon [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> Subject: Side Seam Scalloped Edge Instructions by Jess Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 09:06:12 11/08/04 Mon First off - it ain't easy. Just liked shaped pleats I wouldn't try it unless you have a bit of experience in doing these dresses - please don't feel I am casting aspersions on your abilities - this is just my little disclaimer thing for anyone reading who wants to try them - IT'S NOT MY FAULT IF IT ALL GOES WRONG!!! lol To do shaped sides and keep the dress so it sits well you need to put a side pleat into the skirt. How deep you make it depends on how deep the shaping is - if there is not enough space between the deepest cutaway and the seam allowance it makes it a nightmare to try and sew the thing together - trust me ;-) Been there, done it. When I am doing a normal sided dress I add an inch + seam allowance at the waist then taper it down to around 3 inches + seam allowance at the hem - but as I said you may need to make it deeper (at the top most likely) if the shaping is quite deep. Add this to the side of BOTH the back skirt and the side skirt - the previous seam line now becomes the fold line where the pleat is folded in (just a note, before cutting the piece out, fold along the fold line and mark the waist cutting line onto the pleat section so that it lies level with the cutting line of the side skirt once folded - if that makes sense). To do the shaping on the side skirt, take your pattern and now CUT OFF the extra you've just made for the pleat, along the fold line! So the side skirt is now made from two separate pieces (these get joined back together later). The widest points of the shaping should sit along the very outside edge. Use the pattern to cut the pieces - you should end up with 2 side skirts (l & r) and 2 pleat pieces (l & r) in both the lining and the dress fabric. Embroider the side skirt piece then stiffen and line each of the side skirts and lining pieces as you prefer, and finish the hem as you normally would. I normally cut away the shaping on the side skirt now. Then pin the pleat to the side skirt, lining to lining. Straight stitch the two together along the shaping on the side skirt, and then cut away the excess from the pleat so it too follows the shaping. Satin stitch along the edge - may take two or three goes to get even coverage. So you will now have a side skirt with a shaped edge, and a little flap that sits under the side edge. The back skirt (all stiffened and lined) is then sewn to the edge of that flap. The seam is NOT ironed open, but left flat. You then bind it with a strip of the lining fabric to enclose all edges - I normally machine sew on one side then wrap round, fold under and hand sew the other side down to cover all the seam stitching. That should then leave you with the shaped edge with side pleat. I know that all this probably doesn't make any sense but hopefully you can decipher it a bit!! lol [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> Subject: 4 Panel & 5 Panel Dresses Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 19:59:54 01/19/07 Fri [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> Subject: 4 Panel Skirts -- Jess Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 13:57:54 02/24/07 Sat The front 4 panels are not one single piece. You would basically make 4 or 5 top panels, and 3 or 4 underneath panels (would traditionally be the pleated part). I use the traditional 3 panel to trace off an outline of a whole skirt with no pleats, then split it by the relevant number, draw up the whole design etc. So I then have one piece of tracing paper that is a template for the entire skirt. Then trace off the relevant panels as separate pieces. The lower ones (i.e., the ones that would usually be the "pleat" need to extend underneath the upper panels so take this into account when drawing up the single panels. The outer panels will also incorporate the side pleat of the skirt (if you use one). Use more stiffening than usual; I use an extra layer in each of the 7 or 9 panels to go across the front. This stops the panels being able to twist as easily. Once embroidered, cut all panels to shape, stiffen, and line, and use satin stitch to edge all the side and bottom edges of these panels. Using the original template of the entire skirt I then start from the center and work outwards lining up the panels, pining in place then sew the top panel to the one underneath it with straight stitch, along the satin stitched edging to a few inches down. Back skirt I do as normal though I have seen a couple of Gavin's where he's used the same panels all the way round the back and the back isn't pleated or folded either. -you describe how you construct your multiple panel skirt fronts. A "4 panel" is 4 upper pieces and 5 lower pieces you lay on a solid front skirt template to correctly space them then stitch through the overlapping layers for the first several inches. My question is what a bout the remaining 3/4 of each panels vertical edge? Is there a folded under section from each of the upper four panels that stitches to the lower panel to form sides of a pleat? Or do they not attach to each other at all and work together like petals of a tulip? Again, hoping this is not rude, referencing the gorgeous peach and navy dress on your website, how do the peach panels connect to the navy panels? --Stitch down top couple of inches - roughly a 1/4. But absolutely no pleats in front except for the side seam pleat to keep the skirt flat. The three back panels which would normally be part of the pleats (or four if you have five upper petals as in the dress on my homepage) are open - like petals of a tulip as you say (mum and I dubbed them petal skirts at worlds). So on the homepage - the peach petals are sewn onto the purple for the top 1/4 or so, then below that - open. Jess -Jess, so if the panels are open, kind of like what some dressmakers call a "carwash hemline", then that would leave loads of kick room. Don't even think you would need deep side pleats for kicking, just for the skirt "sitting" correctly. Would this show too much skin when the dancer moves? --Yes - easy to dance in. Side pleats are for the skirt to sit better rather than extra space. As far as skin--the ones that I have seen - no. Each panel needs more stiffening that usual - I use three layers, one of which is a very stiff iron on. That way they don't flip around as much. When my own was finished (the first I tried) I only used my standard two layers so it flips more - had to sew the panels down further in the name of decency ;) Jess [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> Subject: Other 4 Panel drafting Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 13:59:02 02/24/07 Sat The basics for drafting the pattern would be: - take the front waist measurement from side seam to side seam, then subtract 2" (1" from each side so that the skirt sits forward of the side seam) this measurement will be the width of the skirt at the top, then add seam allow. above that - divide top width by 4 for your four panels - the panels will meet at the top of the seam allow, but will be spaced just a bit at the actual seam line -draw the side seam out a 45 degree angle and then shape the bottom curve of the skirt. -divide bottom width into equal sections of panels and pleats and then draw panel lines up to top line. After drawing this out you can then make pattern pieces for the individual panels and pleats adding the fold-back parts, seam allow, hem shape, etc. The outside panels will actually be shorter than the 2 center ones, so you have to adjust your design size to fit. All of the pleats on the front are regular pleats (not faux). They are about 1" at the top and 2.5" at the bottom. There is boning at the bottom of all of the pleats (the black parts on my dress), but not on panels (yellow parts). The yellow panels have 2 layers of stiffener in the center, but the part that folds back is only one layer. The black pleats are 2 layers. The front panels are stitched down about halfway (from the inside so it doesn't show) and the others are stitched down about 3-4". The space at the bottom between the panels is about 3", but I think I will do it a little smaller in the future ( 2 - 2.5")to make the side panels sit better (so the panels will actually be a little wider at the bottom and the pleat will show less). It is by no means the only way to make a 4 panel, but it worked for me - Alison T. Additional clarification: On the panels, it is the "fold-back" part that is 1" at the top and 2.5" at the bottom. This skirt was a 29" waist and that amount worked - however, on a smaller waist you would probably need the fold-back smaller at the top so that none of them overlap. [ Post a Reply to This Message ]

[> [> Subject: Multiple Panel Technique March 2007 Author: Anonymous [ Edit | View ] Date Posted: 20:32:57 03/12/07 Mon 1. Regular pleats inside, connected all the way down {29} 31.52% 2. Faux/flat pleats sewn all the way down {8} 8.70% 3. Loose "panels/petals" all the way down {11} 11.96% 4. Loose panels at the bottom w/faux pleats (car wash hem) {3} 3.26% 5. Loose panels at the bottom w/petticoat underneath (soft skirt) {2} 2.17% 6. I haven't sewn a 4/5 panel yet. {39} 42.39% Total Votes: 92 {number of votes} [ Post a Reply to This Message ]